Sunday promised to be just as cold as the previous day. Keeping that in mind along with the knowledge that we would be spending comparatively more time outside, we were a bit better equipped to face the day with our attire.
We started our morning with the Mariazeller Mass by Haydn at the Jesuitenkirche. A group from the university was going so we tagged along. The church alone is worth poking your head into as it's one of the most ornate Baroque churches in Vienna with spiraling marble pillars, gilded everything, frescoes, and an incredible trompe l'oeil dome that was painted on a flat ceiling but is wholly convincing as a dome - as long as you're standing at the back of the nave.
This mass actually had a full orchestra playing with three soloists, and of course the pipe organ. I've never been to any sort of church service with an orchestra performing before, and apparently they do that almost every Sunday here. Nevermind that mass was in German; the music alone was worth going for.
Afterwards Michael and I got lunch at Café Central. I tried the Vanilleschnitte this time, but I would assert that it does not measure up to the Klimt Surprise. Once we were warmed up again (the Jesuitenkirche was rather drafty) and had our fill of good food, we returned to Staphansdom to climb the southern spire so Michael could get a better idea of the layout of the city. Luckily the top room where you can look out was heated and there was hardly a cloud in the sky, so we had a great view. I also noticed this a little to the left of the Belvedere Palace (thus east of there, and perhaps a tad bit closer to the city center).
Looks Russian. Might need to go check that out.
We then drove out to Schönbrunn to walk around the gardens for as long as we could stand the cold. There weren't too many other wanderers out and it was a really pretty time of day to be there as the afternoon sun cast long shadows across the crisp winter grounds. Of course none of the fountains were running, and the pond in front of Neptune's Fountain was completely frozen over. There were signs posted about not ice skating there. I wasn't tempted.
We then strolled up (and by 'strolled' I mean 'hunched over to block the wind during the extended walk') to the Gloriette at the top of the hill behind the palace. We ordered some hot chocolate and split some Kaiserschmarrn, a traditional Austrian dessert very similar to funnel cake served with a berry sauce on the side. We closed the cafe down, feeling rejuvenated enough to give ice skating a go.
We went back to the city center because the Rathaus has a giant skating rink built in front right now. But that's not all. I had noticed movement through the trees in the park a few times while driving along the Ring and realized that there were ice trails through the woods! Yes, the city hall had one giant ice rink connected to a smaller rink by a fence-lined five-foot-wide path that meanders through the trees. But that's not all! To leave that rink, you either exit the ice completely, or you start on a maze of trails that weave through the trees and periodically come upon roundabouts, totally European-style, so that you actually have options of where to go!
Once again, I find myself incredibly impressed with the offerings of the Rathaus. As Michael pointed out, Vienna is used to entertaining people. Between the summer film festival, the Christmas market, and now the ice skating rink, the Rathaus does not disappoint. I'm really looking forward to seeing what they do this spring. The rental prices were also really reasonable, too. We skated for a few hours, then grabbed a quick raclette (which I knew about thanks to Lauren's French endeavors) to eat, then made our way over to the Hofburg for a Mozart and Strauss concert. A little on the touristy side (okay, a lot on the touristy side), but they play some of the most well-known pieces and we thought it would be worthwhile to get in a little music.
After the concert, we swung back to the house to pick up some of the others for a dessert at Burgerhof. And not just any dessert - I wanted Michael to experience Salzburger Nockerl. Luckily we had a round six people, which was a perfect number to split two of the desserts.
I think we may have been the only ones left in the restaurant by the time we left, but the owner at least did a double take when he saw me, so maybe he's starting to recognize me (we've been introduced, or at least shaken hands, three or four times now). But, as it was getting late, Michael and I just went back to the house after dropping everyone else off.
Monday was back to being overcast. I had to get some paperwork done at the U.S. Embassy, so I left Michael to explore the Military History Museum, then picked him up for lunch at the Naschmarkt. I wanted to take him to Kim Kocht, but we found out that it's closed on Mondays, so we ended up at a Vietnamese Naschmarkt restaurant which was also good. I was really excited to show Michael around the Naschmarkt afterwards, food that he is... except that it was dead. Literally, I've never seen it so empty before. About 65% of the stalls were closed and locked up, and we maybe passed ten other people in the entire place. Huge disappointment. But at least he found a few spices to take back to Becca.
But, as it was cold and we had some time to kill since it took us a quarter of the time I expected it to to wander the Naschmarkt, I decided we should take a spin through the Vienna woods. It always amazes me how abruptly they start at the edge of the city, and the hills climb up and give you a gorgeous view onto Vienna over the treetops (when it's not overcast).
I had to get back to work after that, so the rest of the afternoon was pretty low-key. We went to Palette for a final drink, then called it a night so we could wake up at 4:00am to drive through the snow to get Michael to the airport. I'm still just so thrilled that he was able to make it out to visit! Thanks again, Michael!
We started our morning with the Mariazeller Mass by Haydn at the Jesuitenkirche. A group from the university was going so we tagged along. The church alone is worth poking your head into as it's one of the most ornate Baroque churches in Vienna with spiraling marble pillars, gilded everything, frescoes, and an incredible trompe l'oeil dome that was painted on a flat ceiling but is wholly convincing as a dome - as long as you're standing at the back of the nave.
This mass actually had a full orchestra playing with three soloists, and of course the pipe organ. I've never been to any sort of church service with an orchestra performing before, and apparently they do that almost every Sunday here. Nevermind that mass was in German; the music alone was worth going for.
Afterwards Michael and I got lunch at Café Central. I tried the Vanilleschnitte this time, but I would assert that it does not measure up to the Klimt Surprise. Once we were warmed up again (the Jesuitenkirche was rather drafty) and had our fill of good food, we returned to Staphansdom to climb the southern spire so Michael could get a better idea of the layout of the city. Luckily the top room where you can look out was heated and there was hardly a cloud in the sky, so we had a great view. I also noticed this a little to the left of the Belvedere Palace (thus east of there, and perhaps a tad bit closer to the city center).
Looks Russian. Might need to go check that out.
We then drove out to Schönbrunn to walk around the gardens for as long as we could stand the cold. There weren't too many other wanderers out and it was a really pretty time of day to be there as the afternoon sun cast long shadows across the crisp winter grounds. Of course none of the fountains were running, and the pond in front of Neptune's Fountain was completely frozen over. There were signs posted about not ice skating there. I wasn't tempted.
We then strolled up (and by 'strolled' I mean 'hunched over to block the wind during the extended walk') to the Gloriette at the top of the hill behind the palace. We ordered some hot chocolate and split some Kaiserschmarrn, a traditional Austrian dessert very similar to funnel cake served with a berry sauce on the side. We closed the cafe down, feeling rejuvenated enough to give ice skating a go.
We went back to the city center because the Rathaus has a giant skating rink built in front right now. But that's not all. I had noticed movement through the trees in the park a few times while driving along the Ring and realized that there were ice trails through the woods! Yes, the city hall had one giant ice rink connected to a smaller rink by a fence-lined five-foot-wide path that meanders through the trees. But that's not all! To leave that rink, you either exit the ice completely, or you start on a maze of trails that weave through the trees and periodically come upon roundabouts, totally European-style, so that you actually have options of where to go!
Once again, I find myself incredibly impressed with the offerings of the Rathaus. As Michael pointed out, Vienna is used to entertaining people. Between the summer film festival, the Christmas market, and now the ice skating rink, the Rathaus does not disappoint. I'm really looking forward to seeing what they do this spring. The rental prices were also really reasonable, too. We skated for a few hours, then grabbed a quick raclette (which I knew about thanks to Lauren's French endeavors) to eat, then made our way over to the Hofburg for a Mozart and Strauss concert. A little on the touristy side (okay, a lot on the touristy side), but they play some of the most well-known pieces and we thought it would be worthwhile to get in a little music.
After the concert, we swung back to the house to pick up some of the others for a dessert at Burgerhof. And not just any dessert - I wanted Michael to experience Salzburger Nockerl. Luckily we had a round six people, which was a perfect number to split two of the desserts.
I think we may have been the only ones left in the restaurant by the time we left, but the owner at least did a double take when he saw me, so maybe he's starting to recognize me (we've been introduced, or at least shaken hands, three or four times now). But, as it was getting late, Michael and I just went back to the house after dropping everyone else off.
Monday was back to being overcast. I had to get some paperwork done at the U.S. Embassy, so I left Michael to explore the Military History Museum, then picked him up for lunch at the Naschmarkt. I wanted to take him to Kim Kocht, but we found out that it's closed on Mondays, so we ended up at a Vietnamese Naschmarkt restaurant which was also good. I was really excited to show Michael around the Naschmarkt afterwards, food that he is... except that it was dead. Literally, I've never seen it so empty before. About 65% of the stalls were closed and locked up, and we maybe passed ten other people in the entire place. Huge disappointment. But at least he found a few spices to take back to Becca.
But, as it was cold and we had some time to kill since it took us a quarter of the time I expected it to to wander the Naschmarkt, I decided we should take a spin through the Vienna woods. It always amazes me how abruptly they start at the edge of the city, and the hills climb up and give you a gorgeous view onto Vienna over the treetops (when it's not overcast).
I had to get back to work after that, so the rest of the afternoon was pretty low-key. We went to Palette for a final drink, then called it a night so we could wake up at 4:00am to drive through the snow to get Michael to the airport. I'm still just so thrilled that he was able to make it out to visit! Thanks again, Michael!
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