Monday, April 23, 2012

To Tide You Over...

Cafés. I know, been there, discussed them. But there are just so many in Vienna, all with very distinct personalities, that I really would like to pay tribute to as many as I can. Besides that, I have also found the best gelato in Vienna. Actually and factually the best.

Café Diglas


There are actually two Café Diglas's but according to Günter the one on Fleischmarkt in the first district is far superior to the other. Once you go past the display counter through the entryway back through a narrow room with tables along one side and into the back area, it's actually a charming little place with lots of nooks, though very little natural light. However the tortes more than make up for it.

Café Korb


Near Stephansplatz, this is definitely a non-tourist joint straight out of the 60s. The waiters still wear tuxes and give table preference to the regulars while turning away the obvious tourists. Oh, there's also the gentleman's bowling ally in the basement (though when you can actually bowl I'm not certain), coupled with the very modern-styled restroom. Their desserts are really good as well, particularly the apple strudel. Or for a light after lunch bite, try their seasonal asparagus soup.

And while we're in this part of town...

Eissalon Tuchlauben


Yes, just catty-corner to Café Korb is Vienna's very best gelato shop. Not only is this perfect summer day treat more creamy here than at any other gelato in the city, it's also the only one (that I've found) which mixes things in with the gelato Cold Stone-style. Well, at least they do with the cookies and the fruit flavors. Just go here, you won't be let down.

The Landtmann Chain


Cafés Mozart, Museum, Landtmann, and... the others associated with the Landtmann chain are doing what I imagine is a spring special at the moment with a whole selection of strawberry desserts. I've tried this one, a chocolate strawberry torte, and the strawberry pistachio slice, both of which are amazing.

Go, my friends. Get out and experience these delights!

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Anna Karenina Take II

I went back to the last performance that the Staatsoper was putting on of Anna Karenina this season and thought it was even better this time around. The soloists were Dagmar Kronberger (Anna), Eno Peci (Karenin), and Shane Wuerthner (Wronski), the same that were supposed to dance the premier except for Eno Peci's sudden illness.

Probably no small part in the increased appeal came from my improved seating. I was at orchestra level this time around rather than in the balcony like last time. Being eye-level with the dancers, I could really appreciate their synchronization and movement. I also found the final scene before Anna commits suicide much more powerful and really liked the blinding light as she jumps in front of the train; it wasn't the same seeing it all from above and I thought it was much more dramatic and eerie to have her disappear into the light rather than watching her fall through it. I still can't help but wonder, though: what do the conductor and orchestra think about the few parts where there is a soundtrack playing rather than the musicians? I imagine I would be slightly irked if I were them, but not being a musician I know I actually have nothing to support this opinion. The dancers as well, what do they think? This choreography is certainly more aggressive and physical than any of the classics; is dancing to a soundtrack more challenging, or is dancing just dancing, no matter the 'music'?

All in all it was a great night. Still, if the man in the third level, right, second box from the end never ever comes back to take seven pictures with his flash on during a performance again, I won't be upset.


Curtain Call: Wuerthner, Kronberger, and Peci

Saturday, April 7, 2012

Frohe Ostern!

Happy Easter everybody! I wish I could say that I was writing to you from somewhere wildly exciting, and I would be, except that just about the entire continent of Europe is overcast this weekend with a good chance of rain. I wanted to go here:


but Logarska Dolina, Slovenia will have to wait for better weather. I opted to stay in Vienna. Not that Vienna isn't wildly exciting, of course. Where else would I get to wander through Easter markets? Since I never did make it out to the Christmas Market at Schönbrunn Palace, I decided I definitely shouldn't miss the Easter market that runs daily from the 24th of March (at least this year) through Easter Monday, 10:00 - 19:00.

There was almost a hint of sun trying to break through the clouds this morning, so to take advantage of a guaranteed window of dry I headed out to Schönbrunn. The market really only covered about a quarter of the main courtyard, following the line of the eastern wall, which surprised me a little, but what it lacked in size it made up for in interest and folksy charm.


The first thing that struck me was the amazing smell which pervaded even with the scent of rain lightly on the air. I could tell immediately that there were lots of baked goods, as well as other things that seemed distinctly Easter-y, like honey and lavender. I also noticed how much entertainment there was for the kids (note the far left of the above photo - two boards that you slid your feet into where everyone had to coordinate to walk). You could also give stilt walking a try, or if you weren't feeling up to that you could just follow this chicken around (the picture doesn't really show it but there's a trail of kiddos).


The stands themselves were as diverse as those at the Christmas markets, and most of them were themed, as you would expect.




There were plenty of non-themed stands as well (note the critters), including some gorgeous Polish ceramic dish ware (I didn't know Poland was known for its ceramics, but the woman was very proud of importing it from there) and some letter writing and desk supplies made in Budapest. I might have indulged the wannabe old-fashioned writer in me.

I can hardly go to Schönbrunn without at least taking a quick peek at the Gloriette, so I detoured around to the back of the palace as well.


Even without everything in full bloom yet, there's something about this view that always puts me in a better mood, even if I'm already in a good mood. I took the opportunity to test my new camera with panorama capabilities as well.


I think I still need to tinker with it a bit, but it has a lot of potential. I also noticed something I hadn't ever picked up on while galavanting around the palace gardens before: some of the trees that line the walkway actually grow sideways.


Maybe that's not quite accurate, perhaps they're only trimmed, but I suspect that they've been trimmed thus for so many years that they've been trained to just start growing that direction. I like to think that I hadn't noticed that before only because every other time I've seen it has been in summer or fall when all of the branches are sporting a full array of leaves. At least, that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Although spring is well on its way in Vienna, the greenery and blooms are only just coming out at the palace, perhaps since they do so much landscaping there. I'm glad that it's not all in full bloom yet, though, because I would hate to have missed that and now I'll have an opportunity to catch it. Fingers crossed I'll get to see everything on a warm sunny day!


Still, it's hard to complain with what's out there right now...

Tuesday, April 3, 2012

Eine Melange, Bitte

It probably comes as no surprise that I have remained adamant in my kaffeehaus hunt. Although I am beginning to settle, I've made a few more discoveries since January.

Café Bräunerhof

Large, tasty portion of eggs, good atmosphere, central location, and friendly waitstaff. No internet.

Café Tirolerhof

Also conveniently located - behind the Staatsoper, comfortable seating, nice service. Again no internet. In my defense, I went to both of the above on recommendations from people who said they had had internet access there.

Prince Coffee Club

Photos curtesy of Stadtbekannt and PCC, respectively

I rather liked this place. Giant and chocolaty mugs of hot chocolate, good munchies, at the Hoher Markt, a little on the hipster side, but I found myself able to be quite productive there. Too bad they closed last month.

Café Sperl

Yes, I know I've mentioned Hitler's Haunt before, (and one of the film locations for A Dangerous Method and Before Sunrise), but I have since discovered their Sprelschnitte. This is a new favorite treat. Maybe if I make friends with the waitresses they'll give me the recipe when I go home. Hey, a girl can dream!

Monday, April 2, 2012

As You Might Imagine

Spring has arrived in Vienna. The weather here has been gorgeous. It's been incredibly pleasant to be outside with all of the flower beds around the city having been replanted, the greenery actually becoming green again, forsythia blooming. I like spring anywhere and Vienna is certainly no exception. I even have a new favorite gelato shop, Eissalon Tuchlauben at Tuchlauben 15, caticorner to Café Korb.

Happy April everyone!

Not the best quality, but taken with my phone on Heldenplatz last night.

Sunday, April 1, 2012

Anna Karenina

Saturday I went to the Staatsoper's premiere/revival of Anna Karenina. Boris Eifman choreographed Leo Tolstoy's classic and set it to excerpts from Tchaikovsky's music. The Volksoper (with dancers from the Staatsoper) had put this production on before, the year after its world premiere in St. Petersburg in 2005, and this was its first return to Vienna. Unfortunately Eno Peci had a sudden illness so they had to replace the three leads with Ketevan Papava (Anna), Kirill Koulaev (Karenin), and Alexis Forabosco (Wronski).

I found a very good article, complete with pictures, from the last time Anna Karenina was in Vienna, and although the dancers were of course different, I thought this was a wonderful description of the ballet. So, if you're interested in such things, enjoy:
Volksoper: Boris Eifman's Anna Karenina